Chapter 31: Christmas in Yurimaguas
Our second Christmas in a boat: this time in a small houseboat.
AS TOLD BY GRO AGERSTEN

Preparing for Christmas and the next journey
As mentioned in the previous chapter, one of the greatest joys when we arrived in Yurimaguas on December 12th, 1969, was receiving mail from family and friends in Norway. We wrote back to our parents immediately and went to post them the following day. We were excited to find that more letters had arrived from Norway and even some packages! The checks for our financial support had also arrived, and we quickly took those to the bank to cash. It took a little while since they did not know us, but in the end, we were able to leave the bank with the money.
The days before Christmas flew by. We had things to prepare and shopping to do. We were planning to leave again before the new year and to be gone about three months before we returned to civilization, so in addition to Christmas presents and goodies, we needed to stock up on provisions for the upcoming journey. We also wanted to buy more medications to take with us; the weeks spent traveling in the jungle had made us realize the great need for healthcare among the people in the villages.
In Yurimaguas there were many small stores with a variety of food products. There were not many other kinds of shops, but we were able to get what we needed: canned food and dry goods like flour and rice, some toiletries, paraffin for the lights and the stove, and of course, fuel and oil for the boat engine. I was amazed to find dry milk powder from Holland, butter from New Zealand, and oatmeal from the USA, all in cans! We could hardly believe our eyes when we even found cans of Stabburet meatballs from Norway! You could only find this type of canned goods here in the state of Loreto because they had a special tax-free status on imported goods. We bought as many different medications as we felt we could afford, both for our own use and to share with people in need as we traveled. The American missionaries, the Elliots, gave us reusable syringes and equipment for tooth extractions. Some family and friends had sent us checks for Christmas, so in addition to all the other shopping, it was fun to shop for Christmas presents, as well. There would be something for all of us on Christmas Eve! Our parents and a couple of friends had sent packages by ship to Lima, and the Lindgrens had sent them on to Yurimaguas. It was extra special to have presents and goodies directly from Norway.
Besides the shopping, there were other tasks that kept us busy as well. Since we were planning to settle in the village of Tigre Playa, we had to obtain documents giving us permission to live and work in that province. There were more letters to write and reports to our supporters. In one letter I wrote a summary of the last few weeks: We had been in the boat 8 weeks since we had picked it up in Borja, we had held 35 services, passed out tracts and talked to many people, helped several sick people with medications and treatments, and many had accepted the Lord for salvation.
As mentioned in the previous chapter, one of the greatest joys when we arrived in Yurimaguas on December 12th, 1969, was receiving mail from family and friends in Norway. We wrote back to our parents immediately and went to post them the following day. We were excited to find that more letters had arrived from Norway and even some packages! The checks for our financial support had also arrived, and we quickly took those to the bank to cash. It took a little while since they did not know us, but in the end, we were able to leave the bank with the money.
The days before Christmas flew by. We had things to prepare and shopping to do. We were planning to leave again before the new year and to be gone about three months before we returned to civilization, so in addition to Christmas presents and goodies, we needed to stock up on provisions for the upcoming journey. We also wanted to buy more medications to take with us; the weeks spent traveling in the jungle had made us realize the great need for healthcare among the people in the villages.
In Yurimaguas there were many small stores with a variety of food products. There were not many other kinds of shops, but we were able to get what we needed: canned food and dry goods like flour and rice, some toiletries, paraffin for the lights and the stove, and of course, fuel and oil for the boat engine. I was amazed to find dry milk powder from Holland, butter from New Zealand, and oatmeal from the USA, all in cans! We could hardly believe our eyes when we even found cans of Stabburet meatballs from Norway! You could only find this type of canned goods here in the state of Loreto because they had a special tax-free status on imported goods. We bought as many different medications as we felt we could afford, both for our own use and to share with people in need as we traveled. The American missionaries, the Elliots, gave us reusable syringes and equipment for tooth extractions. Some family and friends had sent us checks for Christmas, so in addition to all the other shopping, it was fun to shop for Christmas presents, as well. There would be something for all of us on Christmas Eve! Our parents and a couple of friends had sent packages by ship to Lima, and the Lindgrens had sent them on to Yurimaguas. It was extra special to have presents and goodies directly from Norway.
Besides the shopping, there were other tasks that kept us busy as well. Since we were planning to settle in the village of Tigre Playa, we had to obtain documents giving us permission to live and work in that province. There were more letters to write and reports to our supporters. In one letter I wrote a summary of the last few weeks: We had been in the boat 8 weeks since we had picked it up in Borja, we had held 35 services, passed out tracts and talked to many people, helped several sick people with medications and treatments, and many had accepted the Lord for salvation.

Christmas Eve
Christmas Eve morning arrived, warm and humid just like the previous days, and the harbor was busy as usual. We had some heavy rain showers the last couple of days, so the riverside was muddy. Most people went barefoot, but they were used to it, so it didn’t stop them from getting where they wanted to go. Women came down to the river with bundles of laundry followed by their younger children. The children took the opportunity to bathe and play in the water while their mothers washed the clothes. I used river water in tubs on the back of the boat to wash our clothes as well. Then I would hang them to dry on the roof of the boat. I had completed this chore a couple of days before Christmas Eve, however.
The sun was shining from a cloudless sky over the Huallaga. Dewdrops glistened on the leaves of the forest on the other side of the river. It looked so peaceful and beautiful in contrast to the mud, the dilapidated palm huts, and the business of the people on our side of the river. I couldn’t see much of the town itself from where we were docked since most of it was on top of the hill, only the nearest buildings. I turned my gaze from the outside to look at the interior of the boat. It was still early, and I had time to sit and reminisce a bit before breakfast.
Christmas Eve morning arrived, warm and humid just like the previous days, and the harbor was busy as usual. We had some heavy rain showers the last couple of days, so the riverside was muddy. Most people went barefoot, but they were used to it, so it didn’t stop them from getting where they wanted to go. Women came down to the river with bundles of laundry followed by their younger children. The children took the opportunity to bathe and play in the water while their mothers washed the clothes. I used river water in tubs on the back of the boat to wash our clothes as well. Then I would hang them to dry on the roof of the boat. I had completed this chore a couple of days before Christmas Eve, however.
The sun was shining from a cloudless sky over the Huallaga. Dewdrops glistened on the leaves of the forest on the other side of the river. It looked so peaceful and beautiful in contrast to the mud, the dilapidated palm huts, and the business of the people on our side of the river. I couldn’t see much of the town itself from where we were docked since most of it was on top of the hill, only the nearest buildings. I turned my gaze from the outside to look at the interior of the boat. It was still early, and I had time to sit and reminisce a bit before breakfast.

It was strange to think that this would be our second Christmas in a boat since we left Norway! The first one was on the freighter “Margrethe Bakke” in 1966 as we passed through the Panama Canal on our way to Peru. There we had enjoyed typical Norwegian Christmas food and beautiful surroundings, both in the boat and outside as we floated past forests and palm trees along the lit-up canal and lake. Where we were now in 1969 could not quite compare to that, but we were spending Christmas in a boat again with water under the keel.
We had gotten a small, plastic Christmas tree when we left Norway. During the ocean crossing, we had set it on the dresser in our cabin once we reached the still waters in the Caribbean. Now it hung from the ceiling in the boat above the table. The small boat rolled too much for it to stay upright sitting on the table, so hanging it up was the only solution. I had a Christmas runner on the table, and I had hung some Christmas cards as decorations above the windows. It may not have been much, but it was Christmas, and we were looking forward to it. After breakfast, the chicken would need to be cleaned and prepared to put in the oven for our dinner. Many other things would need to be done before we could sit down and celebrate our first Christmas Eve in the jungle. I’d better get started!
We had gotten a small, plastic Christmas tree when we left Norway. During the ocean crossing, we had set it on the dresser in our cabin once we reached the still waters in the Caribbean. Now it hung from the ceiling in the boat above the table. The small boat rolled too much for it to stay upright sitting on the table, so hanging it up was the only solution. I had a Christmas runner on the table, and I had hung some Christmas cards as decorations above the windows. It may not have been much, but it was Christmas, and we were looking forward to it. After breakfast, the chicken would need to be cleaned and prepared to put in the oven for our dinner. Many other things would need to be done before we could sit down and celebrate our first Christmas Eve in the jungle. I’d better get started!

Soon there were delicious smells in the boat from the chicken in the oven and freshly baked bread. After a refreshing bath in the river, we dressed in our best clothes. It was a solemn moment as the four of us sat down together that afternoon, and John read the well-known verses in the Gospel of Luke telling of our Saviour’s birth. As we prayed over the food, it also became a prayer of thanks for salvation and eternal life in Jesus. It was amazing to think that our little family was able to celebrate in a small boat here in the Amazon! We enjoyed our Christmas dinner of roast chicken, sweet potatoes, rice, and vegetables. A delicious fruit salad rounded off the festive meal.
After clearing the table, we brought out the presents. There was a lot of excitement even though the presents were small. Our present to ourselves was a battery-powered radio; our old one had been stolen in Bagua. Right now we were listening to Christmas songs from the christian radio station “Voice of the Andes” from Quito, Ecuador. It really helped create a Christmas atmosphere. Then we sang some Norwegian Christmas songs together before enjoying coffee and Christmas goodies. We had been able to get soft drinks here in Yurimaguas and we had Christmas sweets both from here and some sent to us from Norway. We were truly lacking nothing! John and I read some magazines and papers from Norway in the light of the paraffin lamp while Maino and Lewi played with their new toys for a little while. They soon fell asleep, and it did not take long for us to do the same. Our second Christmas Eve in a boat turned into night as a myriad of stars shone above us.
After clearing the table, we brought out the presents. There was a lot of excitement even though the presents were small. Our present to ourselves was a battery-powered radio; our old one had been stolen in Bagua. Right now we were listening to Christmas songs from the christian radio station “Voice of the Andes” from Quito, Ecuador. It really helped create a Christmas atmosphere. Then we sang some Norwegian Christmas songs together before enjoying coffee and Christmas goodies. We had been able to get soft drinks here in Yurimaguas and we had Christmas sweets both from here and some sent to us from Norway. We were truly lacking nothing! John and I read some magazines and papers from Norway in the light of the paraffin lamp while Maino and Lewi played with their new toys for a little while. They soon fell asleep, and it did not take long for us to do the same. Our second Christmas Eve in a boat turned into night as a myriad of stars shone above us.

Christmas Day
We woke early to the noise of a busy harbor. In Norway, we were used to Christmas Day being a quiet and solemn day. Not so in Peru! However, we had started to get used to that since this was our third Christmas in this country, first in Tarma in the mountains, then Bagua at the edge of the jungle, and now here on the river Huallaga.
We were looking forward to a Christmas service at “Sala Evangelica”. At the time, this was the only Evangelical church in Yurimaguas. It was a large, but simple building in the middle of town. John visited it and got to know the Elliots, missionaries from the USA, and another younger English missionary couple when he had spent time here building "El Sembrador".
The missionaries came down to the harbor and visited us on the houseboat as soon as we had arrived from our journey. They could see for themselves how little space we had, and particularly that the children did not have much room to play. They told us to visit them anytime we had the opportunity. We were also invited to Christmas Day dinner at their house. We got to know the Elliots very well. Herbert Elliot was the brother of Jim Elliot, one of the five missionaries that were killed by the Auca tribe in Ecuador in 1956. The couple were very hospitable and so helpful, we were quite overwhelmed. I wrote home on 12/29, the day before leaving to go to Tigre Playa: “During the Christmas season, we have spent a good deal of time in the home of the two missionary couples here, both for lunches and dinners. We also spent all of Christmas day with them after the service at the church. It has been great for Maino and Lewi to be able to play in their big yard, and it was refreshing for us too to spend time in a real house. It gets very hot inside the boat under the tin roof. Neither missionary couple has children, so they are very excited about Maino and Lewi and can’t do enough for them.”
Departure
The second last day of December we were ready for departure. We had had a couple of busy weeks in Yurimaguas, but there had also been time to rest, especially the time we had spent at the Elliot’s home was very special to us. We enjoyed the time to read, have conversations with our new friends, and spend time in their beautiful garden with orange and mango trees.
All boxes and sacks with the purchased food and supplies were stored under the benches and in the back storage area. Back there we had also placed the barrels with fuel for the engine and the paraffin. It was cramped, but we were counting on being in Tigre Playa in three days' time. Then everything could be taken out and placed in our “new” bamboo hut and a small storage hut. We were looking forward to arriving there and starting the work in that region of the Amazon with that village as our base.
In a last letter home before we left Yurimaguas, I wrote: “ We are looking forward to starting the work, and we are glad that we can count on your prayers. We expect there to be opposition in the spiritual realm as we start to proclaim the Gospel in villages where they have not heard God’s word and do not know Jesus as Saviour.” I continue later in the letter: about two missionaries we were hoping would come and take our place for a while so we could return to Norway on furlow: “ We have not heard any more from Liv Haug or Edith Aateigen since the last letter we received in Bagua. It would be wonderful if they could come this summer! We hope to leave for Norway in March 1971 so in a little over a year. At that point, it will be nearly 4 and ½ years since we left Norway. The time will go by fast till then! Maybe we will hear in the next post. The Elliots have the key to our mailbox and will forward all the mail to us when there are boats going our way.”
Early in the day on 12/30/69, John started the engine, and we headed down the Huallaga River. We spent the night in Lagunas at the mouth of the river before turning west into the Marañon. On the way upriver we passed several villages and groups of houses. On the third day, we arrived at the military base of Barranca where we had to stop and show our documents. By now they were familiar with us, so everything went smoothly. A couple of hours later, we saw Tigre Playa in front of us on the left side of the river. After several weeks in the boat along the rivers, we would now settle in this village and work from there. It would be our base for many years. The date was now 1/1/70, exactly three years after our arrival in Peru.
We woke early to the noise of a busy harbor. In Norway, we were used to Christmas Day being a quiet and solemn day. Not so in Peru! However, we had started to get used to that since this was our third Christmas in this country, first in Tarma in the mountains, then Bagua at the edge of the jungle, and now here on the river Huallaga.
We were looking forward to a Christmas service at “Sala Evangelica”. At the time, this was the only Evangelical church in Yurimaguas. It was a large, but simple building in the middle of town. John visited it and got to know the Elliots, missionaries from the USA, and another younger English missionary couple when he had spent time here building "El Sembrador".
The missionaries came down to the harbor and visited us on the houseboat as soon as we had arrived from our journey. They could see for themselves how little space we had, and particularly that the children did not have much room to play. They told us to visit them anytime we had the opportunity. We were also invited to Christmas Day dinner at their house. We got to know the Elliots very well. Herbert Elliot was the brother of Jim Elliot, one of the five missionaries that were killed by the Auca tribe in Ecuador in 1956. The couple were very hospitable and so helpful, we were quite overwhelmed. I wrote home on 12/29, the day before leaving to go to Tigre Playa: “During the Christmas season, we have spent a good deal of time in the home of the two missionary couples here, both for lunches and dinners. We also spent all of Christmas day with them after the service at the church. It has been great for Maino and Lewi to be able to play in their big yard, and it was refreshing for us too to spend time in a real house. It gets very hot inside the boat under the tin roof. Neither missionary couple has children, so they are very excited about Maino and Lewi and can’t do enough for them.”
Departure
The second last day of December we were ready for departure. We had had a couple of busy weeks in Yurimaguas, but there had also been time to rest, especially the time we had spent at the Elliot’s home was very special to us. We enjoyed the time to read, have conversations with our new friends, and spend time in their beautiful garden with orange and mango trees.
All boxes and sacks with the purchased food and supplies were stored under the benches and in the back storage area. Back there we had also placed the barrels with fuel for the engine and the paraffin. It was cramped, but we were counting on being in Tigre Playa in three days' time. Then everything could be taken out and placed in our “new” bamboo hut and a small storage hut. We were looking forward to arriving there and starting the work in that region of the Amazon with that village as our base.
In a last letter home before we left Yurimaguas, I wrote: “ We are looking forward to starting the work, and we are glad that we can count on your prayers. We expect there to be opposition in the spiritual realm as we start to proclaim the Gospel in villages where they have not heard God’s word and do not know Jesus as Saviour.” I continue later in the letter: about two missionaries we were hoping would come and take our place for a while so we could return to Norway on furlow: “ We have not heard any more from Liv Haug or Edith Aateigen since the last letter we received in Bagua. It would be wonderful if they could come this summer! We hope to leave for Norway in March 1971 so in a little over a year. At that point, it will be nearly 4 and ½ years since we left Norway. The time will go by fast till then! Maybe we will hear in the next post. The Elliots have the key to our mailbox and will forward all the mail to us when there are boats going our way.”
Early in the day on 12/30/69, John started the engine, and we headed down the Huallaga River. We spent the night in Lagunas at the mouth of the river before turning west into the Marañon. On the way upriver we passed several villages and groups of houses. On the third day, we arrived at the military base of Barranca where we had to stop and show our documents. By now they were familiar with us, so everything went smoothly. A couple of hours later, we saw Tigre Playa in front of us on the left side of the river. After several weeks in the boat along the rivers, we would now settle in this village and work from there. It would be our base for many years. The date was now 1/1/70, exactly three years after our arrival in Peru.