Chapter 44: A Surprising Helicopter Landing: A Sign of Changes to Come
AS TOLD BY JOHN AGERSTEN
Problems with documentation
At the beginning of our second period in Peru, we were informed that we needed additional documents for our residency permit in the country. I had to travel to Iquitos immediately to show my passport and sign some papers. We only had a short time to arrange this. If we did not get this done on time, we would have to leave Peru and reapply for residency, which was not an option for us, so we really needed this to be sorted out before the deadline.
We had heard on the radio from a station in Iquitos that the riverboat had departed from there and was on its way up the Marañon River. I prepared to travel with it down to Iquitos. However, the boat did not arrive the day we expected it, nor the following day. We later learned from others waiting for the boat that the owner had announced over the radio that they had engine trouble. The boat had not left the port in Iquitos, and it was uncertain when it would be ready to depart. The weekly flight route from San Lorenzo to Iquitos could be an option, but at that time, there were frequent delays and cancellations on that route. "What should I do?" The deadline to renew our residency permit was quickly approaching! Before going to bed that night, we prayed specifically about this issue and for guidance in the decisions that needed to be made.
The next morning dawned with low, dark clouds and pouring rain. It was as if the heavens had opened up. The weather ruled out all outdoor activities. While we were occupied with various indoor tasks, we heard a noise from afar over the sound of the rain drumming on the metal roof. We listened closely. Engine noise! Could it be a large boat? No, the sound was coming from above. As the sound grew louder, we eventually realized it must be from a plane or a helicopter. Out in this weather? We peeked out of the living room windows. To our great surprise, we saw a helicopter coming in at a low altitude over the river and landing on the grass near our house!
At the beginning of our second period in Peru, we were informed that we needed additional documents for our residency permit in the country. I had to travel to Iquitos immediately to show my passport and sign some papers. We only had a short time to arrange this. If we did not get this done on time, we would have to leave Peru and reapply for residency, which was not an option for us, so we really needed this to be sorted out before the deadline.
We had heard on the radio from a station in Iquitos that the riverboat had departed from there and was on its way up the Marañon River. I prepared to travel with it down to Iquitos. However, the boat did not arrive the day we expected it, nor the following day. We later learned from others waiting for the boat that the owner had announced over the radio that they had engine trouble. The boat had not left the port in Iquitos, and it was uncertain when it would be ready to depart. The weekly flight route from San Lorenzo to Iquitos could be an option, but at that time, there were frequent delays and cancellations on that route. "What should I do?" The deadline to renew our residency permit was quickly approaching! Before going to bed that night, we prayed specifically about this issue and for guidance in the decisions that needed to be made.
The next morning dawned with low, dark clouds and pouring rain. It was as if the heavens had opened up. The weather ruled out all outdoor activities. While we were occupied with various indoor tasks, we heard a noise from afar over the sound of the rain drumming on the metal roof. We listened closely. Engine noise! Could it be a large boat? No, the sound was coming from above. As the sound grew louder, we eventually realized it must be from a plane or a helicopter. Out in this weather? We peeked out of the living room windows. To our great surprise, we saw a helicopter coming in at a low altitude over the river and landing on the grass near our house!
A Helicopter on Tigre Playa
I put on my raincoat and boots before rushing out into the rain. When I reached the helicopter, I peeked in the window and knocked on the door. Those inside were clearly both surprised and startled to see a bearded man with a sou'wester and raincoat in the middle of the jungle. One of the pilots opened the door and greeted me in Spanish. I invited them to come into the house for a cup of coffee and a piece of cake while they waited for better weather. They accepted, somewhat amazed to find a Norwegian family in the jungle on the banks of the Marañon River. There were two pilots and two passengers in the helicopter. They put on their raincoats and hurried the few meters to the house. As soon as we were inside the door and our guests had settled, they bombarded us with questions. They wondered who we were and what we were doing in this place far from civilization. Additionally, they asked if we could tell them where they were!
Plans for Oil Extraction
After we had told them a bit about ourselves and our work, it was their turn to answer questions. The helicopter belonged to the Peruvian Air Force and was flying on a mission for an oil company. In addition to the two Peruvian pilots, there were two American engineers from this company in the helicopter. They were on a reconnaissance mission before the planned seismic surveys in this area of the jungle. We had heard rumors that oil exploration was to take place. Now, we received confirmation that it was more than just rumors. It marked the beginning of significant changes, both positive and negative, for us and the people throughout the area where we worked and beyond.
The pilot told us that the weather was fine when they flew out from their base on the coast. However, as they crossed over the jungle, they were suddenly surrounded by dark storm clouds, wind, and rain. The fuel was running low, so they had to find somewhere to land quickly. However, visibility was zero as the clouds hung thick and low over the terrain. Suddenly, they spotted a hole in the cloud cover. There, they saw the Marañon River and descended over it right by Tigre Playa. To their relief, they saw a green patch of grass on the riverbank directly below them. They simply had to set the helicopter down. The area they landed in was near the church and our house. However, they had not noticed the house due to the heavy rain and low clouds.
We looked at their map together, and I pointed out the village where we were located. They then realized they were not far from the Barranca military base where they were supposed to refuel on their route eastward to Iquitos. It usually took us half an hour to get there by speedboat. For them, it was just a few minutes' flight.
Ride with a Helicopter to Iquitos
After a couple of hours, the cloud cover lifted, and the rain stopped. They needed to continue their journey. I hesitated to ask if they had room for me. After all, it was a military helicopter on a specific mission. As they were heading out the door, one of the American engineers noticed my backpack ready right inside the door. He stopped and asked if I was going somewhere. I then told him about the unexpected issues with our documents and the tight deadline to resolve the matter. He quickly understood the problem. "We are heading to Iquitos and have room in the helicopter." "Grab your luggage and come," was the brief message. I didn't hesitate and quickly thanked him for the offer.
There was a hurried farewell with Gro and the children before I boarded an unusual mode of transportation for us. Several years later, helicopters became our most frequent mode of transport in and out of the jungle. It was a great relief in the situation we were in to have this opportunity to travel. We flew to the military base where they refueled, and a few hours later, we arrived in Iquitos. The next day, I managed to sort out our documents in time before the deadline expired. What a surprising solution to the problem! Both I and those at home expressed our gratitude to the Lord who, this time, arranged transportation in a very unexpected and unusual way!
I put on my raincoat and boots before rushing out into the rain. When I reached the helicopter, I peeked in the window and knocked on the door. Those inside were clearly both surprised and startled to see a bearded man with a sou'wester and raincoat in the middle of the jungle. One of the pilots opened the door and greeted me in Spanish. I invited them to come into the house for a cup of coffee and a piece of cake while they waited for better weather. They accepted, somewhat amazed to find a Norwegian family in the jungle on the banks of the Marañon River. There were two pilots and two passengers in the helicopter. They put on their raincoats and hurried the few meters to the house. As soon as we were inside the door and our guests had settled, they bombarded us with questions. They wondered who we were and what we were doing in this place far from civilization. Additionally, they asked if we could tell them where they were!
Plans for Oil Extraction
After we had told them a bit about ourselves and our work, it was their turn to answer questions. The helicopter belonged to the Peruvian Air Force and was flying on a mission for an oil company. In addition to the two Peruvian pilots, there were two American engineers from this company in the helicopter. They were on a reconnaissance mission before the planned seismic surveys in this area of the jungle. We had heard rumors that oil exploration was to take place. Now, we received confirmation that it was more than just rumors. It marked the beginning of significant changes, both positive and negative, for us and the people throughout the area where we worked and beyond.
The pilot told us that the weather was fine when they flew out from their base on the coast. However, as they crossed over the jungle, they were suddenly surrounded by dark storm clouds, wind, and rain. The fuel was running low, so they had to find somewhere to land quickly. However, visibility was zero as the clouds hung thick and low over the terrain. Suddenly, they spotted a hole in the cloud cover. There, they saw the Marañon River and descended over it right by Tigre Playa. To their relief, they saw a green patch of grass on the riverbank directly below them. They simply had to set the helicopter down. The area they landed in was near the church and our house. However, they had not noticed the house due to the heavy rain and low clouds.
We looked at their map together, and I pointed out the village where we were located. They then realized they were not far from the Barranca military base where they were supposed to refuel on their route eastward to Iquitos. It usually took us half an hour to get there by speedboat. For them, it was just a few minutes' flight.
Ride with a Helicopter to Iquitos
After a couple of hours, the cloud cover lifted, and the rain stopped. They needed to continue their journey. I hesitated to ask if they had room for me. After all, it was a military helicopter on a specific mission. As they were heading out the door, one of the American engineers noticed my backpack ready right inside the door. He stopped and asked if I was going somewhere. I then told him about the unexpected issues with our documents and the tight deadline to resolve the matter. He quickly understood the problem. "We are heading to Iquitos and have room in the helicopter." "Grab your luggage and come," was the brief message. I didn't hesitate and quickly thanked him for the offer.
There was a hurried farewell with Gro and the children before I boarded an unusual mode of transportation for us. Several years later, helicopters became our most frequent mode of transport in and out of the jungle. It was a great relief in the situation we were in to have this opportunity to travel. We flew to the military base where they refueled, and a few hours later, we arrived in Iquitos. The next day, I managed to sort out our documents in time before the deadline expired. What a surprising solution to the problem! Both I and those at home expressed our gratitude to the Lord who, this time, arranged transportation in a very unexpected and unusual way!
Oil Boom in the Jungle
We understood that there was something new happening after the conversation with the pilots and engineers the day the helicopter landed near our house. However, there were more significant changes in the years to come than we could have imagined from what we heard at that time. Some of the changes would not be positive, but there would also be changes that were beneficial both to us and the people of the jungle. In the years that followed, the boat traffic on the Marañon River changed quite a bit. We had a panoramic view of the river from our windows.
Before the oil companies' era, the only river traffic was usually the occasional canoe floating down the river, often loaded with adults and children. Sometimes there was only one person on board, vigorously rowing with the broad oar. Perhaps they were going out to fish or tend to the small patches of land in the little tributary on the other side of the river. Occasionally, they would cast their nets, known as "tarafa," from the canoe near the large sandbank in front of the house. The water only covered it during high tide. Occasionally a slightly larger canoe with a pequi motor mounted at the back would come by. It was named for its distinctive sound, "pequi, pequi." The propeller was attached to a long iron rod, perfect for shallow parts of smaller rivers. Even more rarely, a larger boat would arrive, either from the military barracks in Barranca or from the town of Yurimaguas on the Huallaga River. Usually, the scheduled riverboat from Iquitos arrived every 14 days. We would recognize the sound well before the boat docked at Tigre Playa.
We understood that there was something new happening after the conversation with the pilots and engineers the day the helicopter landed near our house. However, there were more significant changes in the years to come than we could have imagined from what we heard at that time. Some of the changes would not be positive, but there would also be changes that were beneficial both to us and the people of the jungle. In the years that followed, the boat traffic on the Marañon River changed quite a bit. We had a panoramic view of the river from our windows.
Before the oil companies' era, the only river traffic was usually the occasional canoe floating down the river, often loaded with adults and children. Sometimes there was only one person on board, vigorously rowing with the broad oar. Perhaps they were going out to fish or tend to the small patches of land in the little tributary on the other side of the river. Occasionally, they would cast their nets, known as "tarafa," from the canoe near the large sandbank in front of the house. The water only covered it during high tide. Occasionally a slightly larger canoe with a pequi motor mounted at the back would come by. It was named for its distinctive sound, "pequi, pequi." The propeller was attached to a long iron rod, perfect for shallow parts of smaller rivers. Even more rarely, a larger boat would arrive, either from the military barracks in Barranca or from the town of Yurimaguas on the Huallaga River. Usually, the scheduled riverboat from Iquitos arrived every 14 days. We would recognize the sound well before the boat docked at Tigre Playa.
The traffic on the river changed with the arrival of the oil company. More and more often, we saw large boats carrying goods, including refrigerated cargo ships heading to the major base in Saramiriza. Eventually, tugboats with powerful engines started appearing, their sounds heard long before they came into view. They pushed large barges ahead of them filled with trucks, tractors, excavators, and equipment for oil pumps. Most people living along the Marañon had never been to a city and seen a car or anything resembling the vessels and vehicles passing by before their eyes during the 1970s. Over the decade, the cargo barges were loaded with large pipes for oil pipelines being constructed deep into the jungle to the pump stations from Saramuru in the east of Marañon to Saramiriza in the west. From Saramiriza, the oil pipeline was extended to a port city in Piura province along the coast. To lay it, a road had to be built from Saramiriza to Bagua. From there, the oil pipeline followed the existing main road down to the Pacific coast in the west.
Not long after our experience with the helicopter, one of the oil companies established a base near the military barracks in Barranca and another in Saramiriza - eventually also in San Lorenzo. At these locations, barracks were set up for offices, dining halls, and accommodation. There was a call for workers to navigate through the jungle on various paths where seismic surveys would be conducted to locate oil reserves. The wages offered were higher compared to what a typical day laborer would earn. Eventually, this work attracted a large number of young men from the areas on the outskirts of the jungle and the nearby towns. Unfortunately, this influx also brought about bars selling beer and liquor in many villages. In the larger areas, there was also the establishment of brothels, which lured impoverished women from the cities into this trade.
Not long after our experience with the helicopter, one of the oil companies established a base near the military barracks in Barranca and another in Saramiriza - eventually also in San Lorenzo. At these locations, barracks were set up for offices, dining halls, and accommodation. There was a call for workers to navigate through the jungle on various paths where seismic surveys would be conducted to locate oil reserves. The wages offered were higher compared to what a typical day laborer would earn. Eventually, this work attracted a large number of young men from the areas on the outskirts of the jungle and the nearby towns. Unfortunately, this influx also brought about bars selling beer and liquor in many villages. In the larger areas, there was also the establishment of brothels, which lured impoverished women from the cities into this trade.
Engines for boats and sewing machines
Even though many used a lot of their wages for wasteful and harmful purposes, most had money left over. Some were also steadfast and used their hard-earned funds wisely. At the top of the wish list for the men from the jungle were rifles for hunting if they didn't have one already. A close second was a pequi motor for their canoe. Many carved out larger canoes for their new motors. Now, there was more noise on the river from these small engines. They used little gasoline and required minimal maintenance if they just made sure to change the oil occasionally. We truly wished people well with this new mode of transportation that saved them a lot of effort and many hours on the river.
The next wish on the list for many, which undoubtedly came from the woman of the house, was a sewing machine, like the old black Singer machines. Most of the machines that made their way to the jungle were cheaper Chinese versions. This was a significant advancement in many households. Many new clothes were sewn for children and adults once a machine was acquired.
Better Communication for Us at Tigre Playa
In Barranca and at the other bases, large rafts were prepared on the river for mooring boats and seaplanes used to transport engineers and special workers from Iquitos. The planes to and from the coastal town of Chiclayo used the military barracks' airstrip as a landing spot. Both the American supervisors and the Peruvian pilots were supportive of the work we were doing, and there was always goodwill when we needed transportation out of the jungle. In the spring of 1974, the entire Wilhelm family left the jungle by plane from Barranca. They were going on their first vacation since arriving in Peru in the fall of '72. Trips to Lima were always combined with other tasks. There were residence permits to renew or literature to purchase, mostly the New Testament, Bibles, and hymn books.
During the same summer, we had the joyful visit of missionaries Oddbjørg and Gunnar Vervik. They relieved Liv and Edith in Pampa Silva but stayed with us for a few weeks to get acquainted with the work in the northern jungle. Gunnar joined a couple of river trips with Alli Shungo, visiting indigenous and mestizo villages. They came via Iquitos, and during that week, the military's civilian seaplane route ran as scheduled after a long period of cancellations. When it was time for them to return home, they were able to fly with the oil company's plane to Chiclayo. From there, they took a bus to Lima and then on to Pampa Silva. This made the trip much shorter - and cheaper - especially since the oil companies, both foreign and Peruvian, never charged us.
Even though many used a lot of their wages for wasteful and harmful purposes, most had money left over. Some were also steadfast and used their hard-earned funds wisely. At the top of the wish list for the men from the jungle were rifles for hunting if they didn't have one already. A close second was a pequi motor for their canoe. Many carved out larger canoes for their new motors. Now, there was more noise on the river from these small engines. They used little gasoline and required minimal maintenance if they just made sure to change the oil occasionally. We truly wished people well with this new mode of transportation that saved them a lot of effort and many hours on the river.
The next wish on the list for many, which undoubtedly came from the woman of the house, was a sewing machine, like the old black Singer machines. Most of the machines that made their way to the jungle were cheaper Chinese versions. This was a significant advancement in many households. Many new clothes were sewn for children and adults once a machine was acquired.
Better Communication for Us at Tigre Playa
In Barranca and at the other bases, large rafts were prepared on the river for mooring boats and seaplanes used to transport engineers and special workers from Iquitos. The planes to and from the coastal town of Chiclayo used the military barracks' airstrip as a landing spot. Both the American supervisors and the Peruvian pilots were supportive of the work we were doing, and there was always goodwill when we needed transportation out of the jungle. In the spring of 1974, the entire Wilhelm family left the jungle by plane from Barranca. They were going on their first vacation since arriving in Peru in the fall of '72. Trips to Lima were always combined with other tasks. There were residence permits to renew or literature to purchase, mostly the New Testament, Bibles, and hymn books.
During the same summer, we had the joyful visit of missionaries Oddbjørg and Gunnar Vervik. They relieved Liv and Edith in Pampa Silva but stayed with us for a few weeks to get acquainted with the work in the northern jungle. Gunnar joined a couple of river trips with Alli Shungo, visiting indigenous and mestizo villages. They came via Iquitos, and during that week, the military's civilian seaplane route ran as scheduled after a long period of cancellations. When it was time for them to return home, they were able to fly with the oil company's plane to Chiclayo. From there, they took a bus to Lima and then on to Pampa Silva. This made the trip much shorter - and cheaper - especially since the oil companies, both foreign and Peruvian, never charged us.
A couple of months after their visit, Gro and Lewi flew with the same company's plane to Iquitos to withdraw our quarterly upkeep from the bank and purchase medicines, groceries, etc. for the next three months. It only took half an hour by speedboat to Barranca, and from there, with the seaplane, they reached Iquitos in just a few hours. The days were busy with various purchases in stores and medical depots. The final task during shopping trips in Iquitos was to find our regular carrier who would carry the numbered crates and bags down the steep bank to the riverboat. Our duty was to ensure that no one stole from all the goods stacked along a house wall during the loading process. Once everything was aboard, we had to go down to the boat and check that the boat owner had noted down all our cargo with the correct name and village. Payment was made in advance, and the goods always arrived as expected over the years. Gro and Lewi were relieved not to have to spend five days on the boat up the river but could take the Twin Otter seaplane to San Lorenzo and then an hour in the speedboat home. The plane accommodated 20 passengers and was used by the military in their civil aviation service.
The Gospel is Spread
Both this air service and the oil companies' flights led to a significant improvement in transportation compared to when we settled at Tigre Playa 4-5 years earlier. Additionally, in the years that followed, we had a good collaboration with Wycliffe Bible Translators and JAARS (Jungle Aviation and Radio Service) who provided flights and radio services to Wycliffe translators among various Indigenous tribes in Peru and other parts of the world. This cooperation meant a great deal to us, especially concerning flights and radio communication with the outside world.
Furthermore, the mission's new boats, the houseboat Alli Shungo and the fast speedboat opened up new and better opportunities to spread the Gospel to the population in this vast area where the rivers are the main thoroughfares. These improvements made everyday life easier and the challenges more manageable for us at Tigre Playa. Significant sowing of spiritual seeds was carried out during these years. New groups of believers and outposts emerged among both indigenous people in the tributaries and the Spanish-speaking population along the Marañon. At the same time, we were able to alleviate much physical distress and sickness, especially with the help of improved communication tools.
The Gospel is Spread
Both this air service and the oil companies' flights led to a significant improvement in transportation compared to when we settled at Tigre Playa 4-5 years earlier. Additionally, in the years that followed, we had a good collaboration with Wycliffe Bible Translators and JAARS (Jungle Aviation and Radio Service) who provided flights and radio services to Wycliffe translators among various Indigenous tribes in Peru and other parts of the world. This cooperation meant a great deal to us, especially concerning flights and radio communication with the outside world.
Furthermore, the mission's new boats, the houseboat Alli Shungo and the fast speedboat opened up new and better opportunities to spread the Gospel to the population in this vast area where the rivers are the main thoroughfares. These improvements made everyday life easier and the challenges more manageable for us at Tigre Playa. Significant sowing of spiritual seeds was carried out during these years. New groups of believers and outposts emerged among both indigenous people in the tributaries and the Spanish-speaking population along the Marañon. At the same time, we were able to alleviate much physical distress and sickness, especially with the help of improved communication tools.