Chapter 2: The Journey to Peru
Part 1 - Gothenburg to Panama
AS TOLD BY GRO AGERSTEN
“STORM and QUIET” are the two words that come to mind when I think about that journey across the ocean from Sweden to Peru. Of course, there are many unrelated memories, as well, but my most vivid memories of that ship voyage will forever be linked to these words.
GOTHENBURG (11/29/66)
After traveling through the night on the train from Oslo to Gothenburg, we got off the train in the morning and headed for the Gothenburg port with some nervous excitement. We were to travel the rest of the way to Peru across the ocean on MS Margrethe Bakke, a freighter that belonged to Haugesund "Knutsen Line". This was no cruise ship, not even a smaller passenger ship; she mostly just carried freight. You might wonder why we had chosen a freighter for our trip. Well, although it did not take many passengers, this shipping line offered discounts and a large luggage allowance for missionaries, which was a true blessing for us. We had, of course, a lot of luggage with us since we were not simply going on vacation! We had loaded quite a bit of the luggage onto the freighter while she was docked in Oslo, but we ourselves had not boarded at that time, because it would be getting an overhaul in Gothenburg, and that would take some time. As we approached the ship this morning, we still had quite a bit of luggage with us, but the crew was very helpful as we cautiously went up the gangplank.
We were curious to see our cabin, of course; we would be spending quite a bit of time onboard! Our cabin was on the first floor above the deck. We were happy to see that it was quite large and had windows both forward and sideways which provided a great view. We even had our own private bathroom with a tub and two sinks - not an everyday occurrence in Norway in the 60s! Our beds were securely fastened to the walls, one on each side of the room, and they had brought in a crib for Maino. It was standing loose against one of our beds. A cabinet and a dresser were also securely fastened and immovable. We were very pleased with the room! We were soon called down to breakfast in the dining room and were very delighted with what we saw there as well.
Breakfast was generous and delicious! As it turned out, all the meals on board were excellent. One could easily be spoiled here! The passengers ate in the officers' dining room which was a staircase down from our cabin. There was also a lounge right next to our cabin, and a fairly plentiful library. We had our Spanish language course books with us as well, so we should at least not run out of things to read! It seemed like everything was set for a pleasant journey, even if the length of it was a little daunting!
Letters were our main way to communicate with those at home. I started the first one the next day.:
"We should really have left Gothenburg yesterday at midday. But in the morning we heard that it would be postponed until the evening. At one time there was rough weather with strong winds and blowing snow, so they had to stop the loading. Therefore, we were not ready to leave the harbor before today. "
I was able to mail the letter at the first stop in Copenhagen, Denmark.
We were curious to see our cabin, of course; we would be spending quite a bit of time onboard! Our cabin was on the first floor above the deck. We were happy to see that it was quite large and had windows both forward and sideways which provided a great view. We even had our own private bathroom with a tub and two sinks - not an everyday occurrence in Norway in the 60s! Our beds were securely fastened to the walls, one on each side of the room, and they had brought in a crib for Maino. It was standing loose against one of our beds. A cabinet and a dresser were also securely fastened and immovable. We were very pleased with the room! We were soon called down to breakfast in the dining room and were very delighted with what we saw there as well.
Breakfast was generous and delicious! As it turned out, all the meals on board were excellent. One could easily be spoiled here! The passengers ate in the officers' dining room which was a staircase down from our cabin. There was also a lounge right next to our cabin, and a fairly plentiful library. We had our Spanish language course books with us as well, so we should at least not run out of things to read! It seemed like everything was set for a pleasant journey, even if the length of it was a little daunting!
Letters were our main way to communicate with those at home. I started the first one the next day.:
"We should really have left Gothenburg yesterday at midday. But in the morning we heard that it would be postponed until the evening. At one time there was rough weather with strong winds and blowing snow, so they had to stop the loading. Therefore, we were not ready to leave the harbor before today. "
I was able to mail the letter at the first stop in Copenhagen, Denmark.
Copenhagen (12/01/66)
We arrived in Copenhagen on the morning of December 1st. The seas had been calm, so thankfully we had slept well. We were told the ship would be in port loading until the afternoon, so we took time for a nice walk in central Copenhagen before we had to board again and resume the journey.
The next stop was to be Hamburg, Germany. Because of a storm in the North Sea, we traveled south to use the Kiel canal from east to west.
The next stop was to be Hamburg, Germany. Because of a storm in the North Sea, we traveled south to use the Kiel canal from east to west.
The ship rolled a good bit on the sea before we finally entered the canal late that night. When we woke up the next morning, we could look out over the fields and meadows as we slowly floated past in the narrow channel. Before we were out on the coast north of Hamburg, we went through a canal lock. It was a new, exciting experience for us. Later that experience would be repeated at a larger scale in the Panama Canal.
HAMBURG (12/3 - 12/5/66)
Early in the evening Saturday, December 3rd, we docked in Hamburg. We were going to be staying there for a couple of days. We had visited this city a few years earlier, but were eager to explore again! However, the cold weather caused us to keep the visit to the city pretty short this time. How disappointing! We did buy a Super 8 film camera while we were there, along with a few 3-minute reels to go with it. It was not cheap and took a big chunk out of our pretty limited budget! We felt justified, however, that it would be a good investment. Now we did not have much money left for the film for our regular camera, though. That's probably why we have very few pictures of the ocean crossing, and also of the first period of time after arriving in Lima!
BREMEN (12/6 - 12/8/66)
We arrived in Bremen Tuesday, December 6th. The ship had to wait for several hours outside the port area for an open spot to dock. Bremen, Germany is a big, beautiful city, so the next morning we went out to explore a bit. We saw many impressive buildings down in the center of the city, and we also visited the old part of town where a bell tower chimes every day at noon. It was beautiful! We were supposed to leave Bremen that evening, but a heavy fog came creeping in, so we ended up having to stay docked in Bremen all night. The next morning, Thursday, December 8th, we finally got underway. Antwerp in Belgium would be the next and last port in Europe.
THE FIRST STORM (12/8 - 12/9/66)
Once we were outside the Bremen harbor around one pm that Thursday afternoon, the wind began to increase. It continued to get windier throughout the evening, and by 2 o'clock in the morning, it was at its worst. We had gone to sleep, but woke up then to quite a racket! Everything that was loose in our cabin was sliding down from the shelves and the dresser! A chair that was not secured was sliding back and forth and crashing into things. Maino had woken up and was sitting in the crib crying as it slid back and forth in the cabin with the movement of the big waves. It had not been fastened to anything either! We grabbed the crib and fastened it with some rope the steward brought us, and then she fell asleep again in spite of all the noise!
We went to look at what was causing the noise outside our cabin. The armchairs in the lounge next to us were knocking into the wall and then sliding back to the other side. The tables were luckily bolted to the floor. The steward and a couple of sailors were standing outside the lounge door and throwing lassos in among the chairs. It was quite a sight! Eventually, all the chairs were captured and bound together in a corner of the lounge! For our part, we got hold of the baby carriage that was rolling back and forth in the tiny hallway outside our cabin. We got it tied up quickly. After cleaning up the cabin, we finally got a little sleep toward morning when the wind died down a little. We were nearing the calmer waters outside Antwerp.
We went to look at what was causing the noise outside our cabin. The armchairs in the lounge next to us were knocking into the wall and then sliding back to the other side. The tables were luckily bolted to the floor. The steward and a couple of sailors were standing outside the lounge door and throwing lassos in among the chairs. It was quite a sight! Eventually, all the chairs were captured and bound together in a corner of the lounge! For our part, we got hold of the baby carriage that was rolling back and forth in the tiny hallway outside our cabin. We got it tied up quickly. After cleaning up the cabin, we finally got a little sleep toward morning when the wind died down a little. We were nearing the calmer waters outside Antwerp.
ANTWERP (12/9 - 12/12/66)
We spent all day waiting for the pilot. There were many ships around us who were also waiting for their turn to be led into the harbor. The pilots had not been able to work for many hours because of the fog. Finally Saturday morning December 12th, we hoisted anchor and sailed towards Antwerp, Belgium. It was interesting to watch the flat landscape with windmills on either side of us!
The ship would finish loading that day, but we had time to get our feet on dry land for a bit and take a small city tour. However, the weather was cold and wet, so we did not stay long. It was good to get on board the “Margaret Bakke” again. After almost two weeks on board, the ship now felt like home!
As the ship left the dock that evening and headed toward the open sea, it was strange for us to see the harbor being lost in the darkness behind us. This was goodbye to Europe and we were truly on our way to totally new adventures. The next landfall would be in Panama, across the Atlantic Ocean. It was good to know that God was with us!
The ship would finish loading that day, but we had time to get our feet on dry land for a bit and take a small city tour. However, the weather was cold and wet, so we did not stay long. It was good to get on board the “Margaret Bakke” again. After almost two weeks on board, the ship now felt like home!
As the ship left the dock that evening and headed toward the open sea, it was strange for us to see the harbor being lost in the darkness behind us. This was goodbye to Europe and we were truly on our way to totally new adventures. The next landfall would be in Panama, across the Atlantic Ocean. It was good to know that God was with us!
THE CROSSING (12/12- 12/24/66)
We woke up to a beautiful day on Sunday as we sailed through the English Channel. The white cliffs of Dover shone in the sunshine and were beautiful to watch as we went past!
Maino had unfortunately caught a cold, and it was getting worse. Her sleep was restless that night, as the wind increased into a small storm with high waves. This bad weather continued through Monday and Tuesday, and the ship was being tossed about side to side and up and down. We were told that the ship was being tossed about more than usual because we had so little cargo. It was nerve-wracking to see how the waves slammed onto the deck. When they did, we could see nothing but water foaming, raging, and roaring all around us! It was quite scary!
Two of the sailors had to go out in this weather and try to fix a hatch cover that had come loose. We were watching them from the wheelhouse, and it was incredibly fascinating and exciting to watch them work! When the boat was headed up out of a wave, and the water ran off the deck, they ran out and worked with the hatch until the ship started dipping down into the next wave. Then they would run to a mast and cling to it while the waves roared around them! They had to repeat the process several times before they were finished. I was very glad that at least we didn’t have to go outside in the storm!
Maino was still not feeling well, and she was also very frustrated because she was not able to walk around. When we tried to put her on the floor, she would fall over because of the strong movement of the ship, and she would hurt herself. She was not a happy little girl! Soon, her cold turned into an earache. She had a fever for a few days, and just lay dozing in bed. The First Helmsman, who was the "ship doctor" onboard, brought us some medication for her. We thought that it had to be an ear infection, for she was constantly pulling on one ear. One day her ear started draining, and after that, she was quickly better.
We passed the days studying Spanish, reading, and writing. I knitted sometimes, too. There were 9 passengers on board including us, but these days, few of the other passengers showed up for the meals in the dining room. We assumed seasickness had probably gotten to them and they did not feel like eating. At least we were able to avoid seasickness, thanks to the fact that we had begun to take seasickness pills right from the start. Maino did not take pills of course, but fortunately, she still did not get seasick. Although we were healthy enough to enjoy the food, eating was not always an easy task these days! The tables had damp table cloths and raised edges to help the eating utensils stay put. But it didn’t always work anyway, and things would move around while we were trying to eat! It could be particularly challenging to eat soup!
Maino had unfortunately caught a cold, and it was getting worse. Her sleep was restless that night, as the wind increased into a small storm with high waves. This bad weather continued through Monday and Tuesday, and the ship was being tossed about side to side and up and down. We were told that the ship was being tossed about more than usual because we had so little cargo. It was nerve-wracking to see how the waves slammed onto the deck. When they did, we could see nothing but water foaming, raging, and roaring all around us! It was quite scary!
Two of the sailors had to go out in this weather and try to fix a hatch cover that had come loose. We were watching them from the wheelhouse, and it was incredibly fascinating and exciting to watch them work! When the boat was headed up out of a wave, and the water ran off the deck, they ran out and worked with the hatch until the ship started dipping down into the next wave. Then they would run to a mast and cling to it while the waves roared around them! They had to repeat the process several times before they were finished. I was very glad that at least we didn’t have to go outside in the storm!
Maino was still not feeling well, and she was also very frustrated because she was not able to walk around. When we tried to put her on the floor, she would fall over because of the strong movement of the ship, and she would hurt herself. She was not a happy little girl! Soon, her cold turned into an earache. She had a fever for a few days, and just lay dozing in bed. The First Helmsman, who was the "ship doctor" onboard, brought us some medication for her. We thought that it had to be an ear infection, for she was constantly pulling on one ear. One day her ear started draining, and after that, she was quickly better.
We passed the days studying Spanish, reading, and writing. I knitted sometimes, too. There were 9 passengers on board including us, but these days, few of the other passengers showed up for the meals in the dining room. We assumed seasickness had probably gotten to them and they did not feel like eating. At least we were able to avoid seasickness, thanks to the fact that we had begun to take seasickness pills right from the start. Maino did not take pills of course, but fortunately, she still did not get seasick. Although we were healthy enough to enjoy the food, eating was not always an easy task these days! The tables had damp table cloths and raised edges to help the eating utensils stay put. But it didn’t always work anyway, and things would move around while we were trying to eat! It could be particularly challenging to eat soup!
On the afternoon of December 15th, we sailed past the Azores, a Portuguese archipelago in the mid-Atlantic. Shortly after that, we saw a lighthouse in the distance, and that was the last we would see of Europe. That continent was definitely behind us. What a strange feeling!
The weather improved that day, and for the first time in several days, we dared to go out on the passenger deck. The sun was shining from a blue sky, and the wind had died down. On the leeward side, it actually got quite hot! Unfortunately, it was not to last. There was more bad weather in the coming days, but not as bad as those first stormy days. That part of the crossing will always be linked to the word “STORM”! I thought to myself, and probably said it too: If we survive this sea, I will never again cross it on a ship!
The weather improved that day, and for the first time in several days, we dared to go out on the passenger deck. The sun was shining from a blue sky, and the wind had died down. On the leeward side, it actually got quite hot! Unfortunately, it was not to last. There was more bad weather in the coming days, but not as bad as those first stormy days. That part of the crossing will always be linked to the word “STORM”! I thought to myself, and probably said it too: If we survive this sea, I will never again cross it on a ship!
One morning we woke up to an unfamiliar silence: no movement of the boat, no cracking in wood, or rubbing of the rope - it was silent -and very hot! It was now Monday, December 19th. Outside, we were met by a strange and unexpected sight: below us, the galley boy was going around picking up fish that lay scattered around on the deck! They were flying-fish! It was almost unreal to watch these fish fly above the water surface. Sometimes they even came right up to the passenger deck! A few sailors came around and put out lounge chairs for us. It was wonderful to be out in the sun on the quiet sea! Eventually, though, it was so hot that we had to look for shade. This day marked the transition to what became the keywords for the last part of the journey: CALM SEAS AND HEAT!
The following days were very nice and mostly spent on deck. The sailors covered the passenger deck with a “sun sail” so we could get some shade. As we entered the Caribbean Sea, it was too hot to stay in the cabin! We would sit out on the deck until late in the evenings. In the distance, we could see some of the West Indian islands.
On December 23rd I wrote in my diary:
"Today is the day before Christmas and it’s a warm one. We can’t stand to do much in this heat. We just admire the games of the flying fish, the blue water, and the stars in the evening sky. From the galley comes the sweet smells of cake baking and cooking. It will be a special experience to celebrate Christmas in the Panama Canal. "
The following days were very nice and mostly spent on deck. The sailors covered the passenger deck with a “sun sail” so we could get some shade. As we entered the Caribbean Sea, it was too hot to stay in the cabin! We would sit out on the deck until late in the evenings. In the distance, we could see some of the West Indian islands.
On December 23rd I wrote in my diary:
"Today is the day before Christmas and it’s a warm one. We can’t stand to do much in this heat. We just admire the games of the flying fish, the blue water, and the stars in the evening sky. From the galley comes the sweet smells of cake baking and cooking. It will be a special experience to celebrate Christmas in the Panama Canal. "
It was wonderful to have these days after the many days of storm and tempest. We thanked the Lord that despite everything we had crossed the sea safely. We were also thankful that Maino was completely healthy after her colds and earaches. Since the storm ended, she enjoyed spending time with us on deck.
The next chapter in our journey would be to go through the Panama Canal, and then continue on to Lima, Peru.
The next chapter in our journey would be to go through the Panama Canal, and then continue on to Lima, Peru.