Chapter 24: Building a boat in Yurimaguas
John travels to Yurimaguas to build a boat, while Gro and the children wait in Lima.
AS TOLD BY JOHN AGERSTEN
We left Bagua Monday evening the 18th of August, ‘69 on a bus to Chiclayo and arrived Tuesday morning. There Gro and the children boarded a bus going to Lima where they would be staying with the Lindgrens while I went to Yurimaguas to buy and possibly rebuild a boat.
I took a flight from Chiclayo to Yurimaguas, and that was quite an experience in and of itself! The plane was a DC-3 from the 2nd World War, and we sat along the walls on canvas seats. The cabin was not pressurized, and as we ascended to an altitude of approximately 18,000 feet over the Andes mountains, one of the passengers started having chest pains, but happily, it passed as we started descending. The little airport was located outside of Yurimaguas. I checked into a cheap hotel in town. The walls between the rooms were just thin boards that did not even go up to the ceiling, so I did not get much sleep that night because of the noise from the other guests, including loud music being played long into the night.
Yurimaguas was not a large town at this time, but it had a long history. It lies on a hill on the river Huallaga and is an important trade center in the region, and also the capital of the province. It was founded by two Spanish priests in the first half of the 1700s, and originally there were two large tribes that inhabited that area. With time, many mestizos moved in, and when I came here in 1969, the population was a mix of different native tribes and mestizos, and the town was continually growing as more people moved in. There was actually a dirt road between Yurimaguas and Tarapoto, a town further inland. When the road was dry, it would take 5 to 6 hours to travel between the towns, but in the rainy season, the trip would take much longer. Often the road would close altogether during this time due to flooding and mudslides. The riverbank was a very hectic place. The river was still the main thoroughfare between towns and villages along the rivers Huallaga and Marañon and their tributaries, all the way to Iquitos, the biggest town and capital of the region Loreto.
Building a boat
After breakfast on the first day I headed down to the harbor to look at the boats. Although there were many different kinds of boats along the river, I didn’t see one that would be a good fit for us either as far as size or price. Over the next couple of days, I talked to many people who knew about boats and river travel until I met a man who was building a boat outside of his house. He had just started building; it had the keel extended and it was only a couple of boards in height. He told me he was building it for himself but was willing to sell it and help me build it to my specifications for an acceptable price. I was no shipwright, but I had some idea of what I wanted, so together we drew up a simple sketch of what it should look like both externally and internally.
The boat builder invited me to stay with him and his family, so I bought a hammock and a mosquito net and hung up my “bed” under a roof he used as storage next to his house. I would also be eating with them for a reasonable price. The arrangement suited me very well; it was cheaper and quieter than the hotel, and having meals served at the workplace was an added bonus. We purchased all the materials needed for the boat, and little by little, it started to take shape.
After breakfast on the first day I headed down to the harbor to look at the boats. Although there were many different kinds of boats along the river, I didn’t see one that would be a good fit for us either as far as size or price. Over the next couple of days, I talked to many people who knew about boats and river travel until I met a man who was building a boat outside of his house. He had just started building; it had the keel extended and it was only a couple of boards in height. He told me he was building it for himself but was willing to sell it and help me build it to my specifications for an acceptable price. I was no shipwright, but I had some idea of what I wanted, so together we drew up a simple sketch of what it should look like both externally and internally.
The boat builder invited me to stay with him and his family, so I bought a hammock and a mosquito net and hung up my “bed” under a roof he used as storage next to his house. I would also be eating with them for a reasonable price. The arrangement suited me very well; it was cheaper and quieter than the hotel, and having meals served at the workplace was an added bonus. We purchased all the materials needed for the boat, and little by little, it started to take shape.
The church and missionaries in Yurimaguas
There was quite a large Evangelical church in Yurimaguas founded by an American missionary couple, the Elliots. Herbert Elliot and his wife had been in Yurimaguas for many years and belonged to a denomination called The Brethren. This group does not have pastors, but a group of leaders in the church share the responsibilities of preaching and leading the services. I attended their services and got to know some of the people there. One day Elliot came to see me where I was working on the boat. He had heard I was a pentecostal missionary, and I understood quickly that he had certain reservations about pentecostals. We talked for a good while, and I explained our plans for the future. Mr. Elliot was very open and friendly, and before he left, he invited me for a meal at his home the next day.
We became good friends, and I also made friends in the church during my time in Yurimaguas. Elliot told me that they had traveled up the Marañon and Morona rivers many years ago and had seen the great need for the gospel in those areas. They had hoped to be able to extend the work that far, but the distances and all the work in the Yurimaguas area and on the Huallaga river had made that impossible. There was simply not enough time. They were very happy to hear that someone was coming to work in those regions.
There was quite a large Evangelical church in Yurimaguas founded by an American missionary couple, the Elliots. Herbert Elliot and his wife had been in Yurimaguas for many years and belonged to a denomination called The Brethren. This group does not have pastors, but a group of leaders in the church share the responsibilities of preaching and leading the services. I attended their services and got to know some of the people there. One day Elliot came to see me where I was working on the boat. He had heard I was a pentecostal missionary, and I understood quickly that he had certain reservations about pentecostals. We talked for a good while, and I explained our plans for the future. Mr. Elliot was very open and friendly, and before he left, he invited me for a meal at his home the next day.
We became good friends, and I also made friends in the church during my time in Yurimaguas. Elliot told me that they had traveled up the Marañon and Morona rivers many years ago and had seen the great need for the gospel in those areas. They had hoped to be able to extend the work that far, but the distances and all the work in the Yurimaguas area and on the Huallaga river had made that impossible. There was simply not enough time. They were very happy to hear that someone was coming to work in those regions.
The boat is completed
After a few weeks, we completed building the boat and put it on the water. I named it “El Sembrador” which means The Sower, It was in reference to Jesus’ parable about the sower as our greatest desire was to sow God’s Word and to demonstrate the love of Jesus to the people living along the rivers in this part of the Amazon. The boat was about 46 feet long and 8 feet wide. It was similar to many other boats on the river, but it also had some unique features. In the front was the wheelhouse. It was built up a little from the rest of the boat. In the very back, I had built a small storage room for gasoline and other things. The living area was in the middle with benches built in on each side. At night, we would lay a foam mattress down on the benches to sleep on. There was room for our dining table between the benches, but I would have to do without it between Yurimaguas and Borja where the rest of the family and our things would move into the boat. There was also a small kitchen counter on the wall to the wheelhouse, and on the opposite side, there was room for our stove and refrigerator. On this first trip to Borja, I would only have a small paraffin burner to cook the food. The toilet facilities were simple, as on most boats on the Amazon, and not exactly anything to brag about!
There was not enough money left for a large engine, so I bought a 12V Volvo Penta Electrolux outboard motor. Now the boat had to be registered and approved by the authorities in Yurimaguas. While the red tape was being processed, I started to paint the boat. I didn’t have time to do all the interior painting but planned to finish that on the way to Borja.
After a few weeks, we completed building the boat and put it on the water. I named it “El Sembrador” which means The Sower, It was in reference to Jesus’ parable about the sower as our greatest desire was to sow God’s Word and to demonstrate the love of Jesus to the people living along the rivers in this part of the Amazon. The boat was about 46 feet long and 8 feet wide. It was similar to many other boats on the river, but it also had some unique features. In the front was the wheelhouse. It was built up a little from the rest of the boat. In the very back, I had built a small storage room for gasoline and other things. The living area was in the middle with benches built in on each side. At night, we would lay a foam mattress down on the benches to sleep on. There was room for our dining table between the benches, but I would have to do without it between Yurimaguas and Borja where the rest of the family and our things would move into the boat. There was also a small kitchen counter on the wall to the wheelhouse, and on the opposite side, there was room for our stove and refrigerator. On this first trip to Borja, I would only have a small paraffin burner to cook the food. The toilet facilities were simple, as on most boats on the Amazon, and not exactly anything to brag about!
There was not enough money left for a large engine, so I bought a 12V Volvo Penta Electrolux outboard motor. Now the boat had to be registered and approved by the authorities in Yurimaguas. While the red tape was being processed, I started to paint the boat. I didn’t have time to do all the interior painting but planned to finish that on the way to Borja.
The last couple of days before leaving were spent gathering provisions: gasoline, paraffin, a hunting rifle and fishing gear, and non-perishable food. I also bought some medications and first aid items both for us and some extras if we met others who needed help. On my trip in March into the jungle, I had seen that there was a great need for medical help in the area. Almost all medicine could be bought without a prescription, and the local pharmacist gave me great advice as to what I might need.
I also needed to get a helper to come with me on the trip. The distances are long, so it would be a great help to be two people take turns driving the boat. The man who helped me build the boat, recommended a young man, Alejandro. We came to an agreement about his salary, and now we were just about ready to go. We made a few test runs on the river and made a few adjustments to the balance of our cargo. I was very pleased with how the boat handled even with such a small motor.
One final thing to take care of was our mail. The Elliots agreed to pick it up and hold it for us until we returned to Yurimaguas. We hoped to be back by Christmas. This trip would take us down the Huallaga river to the Marañon river and upstream to the village of Borja. I would leave the boat there and travel up the river through the Manseriche rapids to Chiriaco as a passenger on another boat. It would be too risky to try to take El Sembrador up the rapids. From Chiriaco, I would travel on a truck to Bagua, then a bus to Chiclayo (close to Lambayeque on the bottom left of the map) There I would meet Gro and the children who were coming from Lima where they had stayed with the Lindgrens.
I also needed to get a helper to come with me on the trip. The distances are long, so it would be a great help to be two people take turns driving the boat. The man who helped me build the boat, recommended a young man, Alejandro. We came to an agreement about his salary, and now we were just about ready to go. We made a few test runs on the river and made a few adjustments to the balance of our cargo. I was very pleased with how the boat handled even with such a small motor.
One final thing to take care of was our mail. The Elliots agreed to pick it up and hold it for us until we returned to Yurimaguas. We hoped to be back by Christmas. This trip would take us down the Huallaga river to the Marañon river and upstream to the village of Borja. I would leave the boat there and travel up the river through the Manseriche rapids to Chiriaco as a passenger on another boat. It would be too risky to try to take El Sembrador up the rapids. From Chiriaco, I would travel on a truck to Bagua, then a bus to Chiclayo (close to Lambayeque on the bottom left of the map) There I would meet Gro and the children who were coming from Lima where they had stayed with the Lindgrens.
Gro and the children in Lima
In a letter to her parents, Gro writes from Lima:
“I have just received a letter from John, and now it is soon time to leave Lima. I am so thankful that I did not have to be alone with the children in Bagua this whole time that John has been working on the boat. Boyan and Lennart are so nice and kind. The children and I could not have wished for a better home to stay in. I try to help as much as I can, both in the kitchen and with the mission work they have just started. The children are growing and enjoying their time here. Lewi, especially, has grown a lot during these weeks. He has let go and now walks alone; he is almost running! Maino is growing tall and plays all day with David and Samuel. She is a little jealous of David who has started at the Swedish school here in Lima, but she comforts herself with the knowledge that when we get back to Norway, she will start school too! All three of us are healthy and have put on a little needed weight.
It is Wednesday evening and we have just eaten supper and done the dishes. We had a children’s service before that, so it is now quite late. It has been very interesting to be able to be a part of the work here in Magdalena, a district in Lima. The Lindgrens invite both adults and children into their living room. It can be challenging but also encouraging to see that several of their neighbors want to come and hear the gospel. Last Sunday, the living room was completely full. Many children come also. They can be a handful and have trouble sitting still, but they enjoy the children’s songs we are teaching them. They pay close attention when Boyan or I tell Bible stories with the aid of flannelgraph pictures. Many people also come with problems and illnesses. Boyan, who is a nurse and midwife, helps them in many ways. Of course, there are doctors and clinics in Lima, but most of them cost money. Many are poor, and can’t afford regular doctor visits, so they are very happy for the help they can get from the Lindgrens.”
Gro continues in her letter: “ John tells me he is now in the final preparation to leave Yurimaguas. I am making some preparations as well. All three of us went for a medical check-up, and we have been vaccinated against typhus and tuberculosis. Lewi was also vaccinated against smallpox. It feels good to take these precautions considering the trip we are about to embark on.
I have also bought some non-perishable food, although rice and flour will be bought in Bagua in larger quantities. If we are going to want bread, I will have to bake it myself! I have bought some more Sunday School materials including a series of flannelgraph pictures. John writes that he has bought some Bibles, New Testaments, and booklets with parts of the Bible from the missionaries in Yurimaguas. He plans to leave Yurimaguas on the 25th of September. That is the same day he mailed this letter. Still, it will be many days before he reaches Chiclayo where we will meet. He will call when he gets there. Today is October 1st, so I know it won’t be long now. Even though we have enjoyed our time in Lima, I am excited about leaving. It’s natural that I would look forward to the day all four of us will be together as a family again. A new chapter in our lives lies before us!
In a letter to her parents, Gro writes from Lima:
“I have just received a letter from John, and now it is soon time to leave Lima. I am so thankful that I did not have to be alone with the children in Bagua this whole time that John has been working on the boat. Boyan and Lennart are so nice and kind. The children and I could not have wished for a better home to stay in. I try to help as much as I can, both in the kitchen and with the mission work they have just started. The children are growing and enjoying their time here. Lewi, especially, has grown a lot during these weeks. He has let go and now walks alone; he is almost running! Maino is growing tall and plays all day with David and Samuel. She is a little jealous of David who has started at the Swedish school here in Lima, but she comforts herself with the knowledge that when we get back to Norway, she will start school too! All three of us are healthy and have put on a little needed weight.
It is Wednesday evening and we have just eaten supper and done the dishes. We had a children’s service before that, so it is now quite late. It has been very interesting to be able to be a part of the work here in Magdalena, a district in Lima. The Lindgrens invite both adults and children into their living room. It can be challenging but also encouraging to see that several of their neighbors want to come and hear the gospel. Last Sunday, the living room was completely full. Many children come also. They can be a handful and have trouble sitting still, but they enjoy the children’s songs we are teaching them. They pay close attention when Boyan or I tell Bible stories with the aid of flannelgraph pictures. Many people also come with problems and illnesses. Boyan, who is a nurse and midwife, helps them in many ways. Of course, there are doctors and clinics in Lima, but most of them cost money. Many are poor, and can’t afford regular doctor visits, so they are very happy for the help they can get from the Lindgrens.”
Gro continues in her letter: “ John tells me he is now in the final preparation to leave Yurimaguas. I am making some preparations as well. All three of us went for a medical check-up, and we have been vaccinated against typhus and tuberculosis. Lewi was also vaccinated against smallpox. It feels good to take these precautions considering the trip we are about to embark on.
I have also bought some non-perishable food, although rice and flour will be bought in Bagua in larger quantities. If we are going to want bread, I will have to bake it myself! I have bought some more Sunday School materials including a series of flannelgraph pictures. John writes that he has bought some Bibles, New Testaments, and booklets with parts of the Bible from the missionaries in Yurimaguas. He plans to leave Yurimaguas on the 25th of September. That is the same day he mailed this letter. Still, it will be many days before he reaches Chiclayo where we will meet. He will call when he gets there. Today is October 1st, so I know it won’t be long now. Even though we have enjoyed our time in Lima, I am excited about leaving. It’s natural that I would look forward to the day all four of us will be together as a family again. A new chapter in our lives lies before us!